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Buying Tips

What you should look for when shopping for Wood or Upholstered Furniture...

How to Buy Wood Furniture  



When you hear salespeople refer to "case goods," they are talking about chests, dressers, tables--generally an industry term that refers to furniture constructed of wood.  Actually, today's case goods may be made of wood or of metal, plastics or other man-made materials or both.  Materials are, of course, a determining factor in the look of a piece and will affect durability and price.
 
FURNITURE WOODS 

All woods used for making furniture fall into two categories:  hardwoods and softwoods, although the designation doesn't really have anything to do with the durability of the wood.  "Hardwood" identifies the trees that lose their leaves seasonally and "softwood" refers to those that keep their leaves all year long. 

Hardwoods that are frequently used in making furniture are: ash, cherry, maple, oak, pecan, teak, rosewood, walnut, mahogany and poplar.  Softwoods are cedar, cypress, fir, pine, rubberwood and redwood. 

There are also exotic species of woods used from around the world such as Bulinga, Olivewood and others that are often incorporated into decorative inlays and veneer patterns. 

CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUES 

Several different woods are frequently combined in the same piece of furniture.  For example, the term solid cherry or solid oak means that all exposed parts of the piece are made of that solid wood.  The frame or other parts not visible to the eye might be of another wood such as gum or poplar. 

Because trees don't grow in the shapes and sizes required for making furniture, pieces of wood are bonded together in different ways to achieve the necessary sizes and shapes.  This technique can actually strengthen the wood and add to the durability of the furniture. 

VENEERING: AN ANCIENT ART 

Much of the most expensive furniture produced today owes its exceptional beauty to veneers.  Veneering is centuries old.  The Egyptians used it, and Sir Thomas Chippendale was a master veneer practitioner.  His designs from the 1700s attest to the beauty and lasting quality of fine veneers.  In Chippendale's time, veneering was so costly that few could afford it.  That isn't the case today. 

Veneer construction is the application of thin layers of highly decorative woods on top of solid cores such as plywood, particleboard or fiberboard.  Veneering allows great flexibility, making it possible to match grain patterns or use inlays to create designs that nature cannot produce in solid wood.  Today, wood furniture in all price ranges is made of veneer construction which allows maximum use of beautiful, distinctive grain patterns and rare woods at affordable prices. 

ENGRAVING & PRINTING:  A MODERN TECHNIQUE 

Modern technology has produced a less expensive method of achieving the look of wood veneers.  Manufacturers can simulate a natural wood grain by printing or engraving a pattern on surfaces such as fiberboard, paper or foil.  This furniture is easier to produce and available at a lower price than similar furniture crafted of genuine wood and wood veneers.  It can look attractive, but it usually doesn't provide the same benefits as the real thing. 

FINISHING:  THE FINAL TOUCH 

An appropriate finish adds the final touch of beauty to wood furniture.  A finish which provides uniform color and adds a degree of protection generally requires the application of several coats of oil, wax, lacquer or paint to the surface.  Clear finishes allow the markings and grain variations of naturally beautiful woods to show through.  Tinted or opaque finishes change the color of the wood and can make two different woods appear the same.  Finishes can vary the look of a piece, making it appear smooth and sophisticated or rough-hewn and rustic. 

Distressing is a technique for aging new furniture and heightening its rustic appeal.  The wood is beaten or battered before the finish is applied.  Distressed finishes tend to hide finger marks and scratches and can be an excellent choice for rooms where there is a lot of activity. 

Painted finishes are another popular way of adding the final touch of beauty.  Painted pieces can be a bit more expensive than those with natural finishes because paint tends to point up flaws, so extra care must be taken at the factory to make sure that imperfections are removed from the wood. 

CHECKLIST FOR BUYING WOOD FURNITURE 
  • Doors & drawers fit well     
  • Drawers have glides and stops and slide easily when pulled 
  • Drawer corners are joined securely 
  • Drawer interiors are smooth and snag free 
  • Doors have sturdy hinges and open easily without squeaking or rubbing 
  • Hardware is secure and strong with no rough edges 
  • Tables have a balanced feeling when rocked 
  • Table leaves fit properly 
  • Finish feels smooth to the touch (except distressed) 
  • Distressed finish has randomly spaced dark markings 
  

How to Buy Upholstered Furniture 


Beauty and comfort are the criteria for selecting a sofa, loveseat or chair.  Fabric plays a starring role in the beauty of upholstered furniture, but it's the "undercover" story that makes the comfort difference.  In most upholstered furniture, you'll find three basic parts beneath the eye-catching cover.  They are the frame, the supporting foundation and the cushioning or padding. 

POISED FOR COMFORT 

The frame and supporting foundation are critical to comfort because they are underpinnings for the other components. 

Traditionally, the best frames are made of kiln-dried hardwood, which resists warping.  Today, quality frames may also be made of steel, plastic, laminated boards or a combination of materials. 

Support can be provided by webbing, sling straps, slats or springs of various types.  The design, size and amount of support or softness desired by the designer will determine which type the designer uses.  Springs can be single coil, double cone coil, or zigzag (S-type) and can be connected with twine, wire ties or clips. 

Eight-way hand tied coil springing has been considered a mark of quality for decades.  In this method, each coil spring is placed in the seat by hand and a skilled craftsman ties the coil into place with twine and interlocks it with the other coils using an intricate set of knots.  Each coil is set so it responds to body weight with the proper degree of resiliency. 

Eight-way hand tied remains the standard of excellence, but techological strides in coil development provide comfort and durability in seating pieces at highly affordable prices. 

FROM TOP TO BOTTOM 

Cushioning forms the next layer in the comfort story.  Cushioning materials include cotton or polyester, polyurethane foam, and down.  Foam and polyester fiberfill wrap are much-used padding materials.  These man-made materials are durable, resilient, mothproof and mildew resistant.  There are various grades of foam which lend themselves to various applications.  High Comfort (HC) foam are High Resiliancy (HR) foam are excellent choices.  Foam can be used as a solid unit, wrapped with a softer material or chopped and blown into new shapes for arms and backs that would otherwise be difficult to pad. 

THE COVER STORY 

Choices here are virtually unlimited, but lifestyle and budget should come into play. 

There are two basic types of fabric: natural and synthetics.  Those made by nature are cotton, linen, silk and wool.  Synthetics are acetate, acrylic, nylon, rayon and polypropylene.  Often fabrics are a blend of natural and synthetic fibers combined to provide the best qualities of each with beauty and durability. 

Generally, fabrics with tighter weaves and durable fibers such as polypropylene and nylon stand up better to hard use in an active household.  More glamorous fabrics such as satins and damasks are dramatic and exciting, but should be reserved for seating where serviceability isn't a primary concern.  

THE SIT TEST 
This is the only way to tell if the sofa or chair you're considering is right for you.  Be sure the height and angle of the back and depth of the seat are suitable for you and others who will be using it.  This is especially important for selecting a recliner.  It should fit the person who will be using it the most.  In other words, feel and comfort are an individual matter.  

Test the piece.  Sit and bounce and test the degree of softness and resiliancy (or "bounce back").  Most important, if the look is great but the seat isn't comfortable, don't buy it.  Choose the look and feel that suits you and matches your needs for comfort, durability and price.  Happy shopping! 

CHECKLIST FOR BUYING UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE 
  • Seats are comfortable 
  • Backs are free of bumps and hard spots 
  • Frame is sturdy and doesn't creak or wobble 
  • Frames and corners are well padded 
  • Corners are braced and glued 
  • Seams and welts are straight 
  • Patterns and stripes are matched 
  • Cushions fit snugly and are resilient 
  • Buttons are sewn on correctly 
  • Heavy use pieces are covered in tightly-woven, durable fabric 
  • Mechanisms on recliners and sleeper sofas work smoothly 



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